Installing a new washer and dryer requires only basic plumbing and wiring skills. The difficult part is moving these items or finding the space for the appliances.
- Installing A Standpipe
- Installing Laundry Standpipe
- Installing Washing Machine Standpipe
- Installing A Washer And Dryer
- Installing A Washer Drain Pipe
A washing machine pipes tail piece must be at least 18' but no more than 30'. Is the p-trap, a washing machine pipes p-trap must be installed above the floor, at least 6' above but not more than 18' above. Install a standpipe to a P-trap connected to the drainage and vent system. The standpipe must have a greater diameter than the hose, and the top should be above the washer's water level to prevent overflow.
When deciding on the location, weigh the benefits of convenience against the annoyance of noise and clutter.
The ideal is a separate utility room close to the bedroom, but you may find space in a bathroom, hallway, or the kitchen, as long as utility lines are close at hand.
Remember to add a space approximately 5 1/2 inches wide for full-sized units. Use stacked units ranging between 24 and 30 inches wide for a small space.
See also: How To Install A New Laundry Tub And Faucet
Installing a Washing Machine
Plumbing for a clothes washer includes a 2-inch-diameter drain line and a hot and cold water supply. The standpipe for the drain should be 33 to 36 inches tall and have a trap in it between 8 and 16 inches above the floor.
The drainpipe should be vented within 3 to 5 feet of the trap. (local codes vary, so check with your building department.)
The supply stops should be 33 to 42 inches above the floor, and anywhere from 8 to 18 inches apart. Local codes may require air chambers or shock absorbers on the stops.
Pre-fabricated laundry boxes are available that include the hose bibs and drain inlet in one tidy package that you simply recess into the wall.
Some boxes also include 240-volt and 120-volt electrical receptacles. Just run the wiring and water lines to this box after it is in place, get them inspected, and then cover with drywall or other finish material.
To hook up the washer, clamp the drain hose onto the outlet at the bottom of the machine and insert the j-bend into the standpipe. Then screw the hot- and cold-water hoses onto the washer inlets and onto the hose bibs.
Each hose should have a filtering screen where it attaches to the hose bibb, which you can clean periodically.
To complete the installation, plug the washer cord into a grounded 120-volt laundry receptacle. In some areas, you may be required to have the washer and dryer (if gas) on separate circuits.
Repairing A Washing Machine
Machine won’t fill properly. Make sure the hose bibbs are turned on all the way. Also check the hoses to see if the filtering screens are clogged. If they are not, close the hose bibbs and unplug the machine. Locate the solenoid — the electrical valve where the hoses connect to the machine.
With the electricity off, disconnect the wires from the terminals. Check the solenoid with a continuity tester. If the solenoid is working, check the water temperature switch. It usually has three terminals: one ground, one for the wire to the cold-water solenoid, and one for the wire to the hot-water solenoid.
Attach one probe of your continuity tester to the ground terminal. Turn the switch to “cold,” and touch the second probe of the tester to the cold-water terminal. The tester should light up. Do the same for the hot-water side. This time your tester should not light. If the tester does not respond properly, replace the temperature switch.
The timer is the only other switch that might be causing the problem. This is very hard to test; call a professional.
Water won’t shut off. First, pull the power cord. If water continues to run into the machine, the problem is the mixing valve where the hoses are connected. Replace it. If water stops flowing when you pull the cord, the problem may be the timer. Plug in the machine and advance the time knob.
If the water stops the timer is bad and should be replaced. If not, the problem is most likely the water level switch. Call in a pro.
Water won’t drain. Unplug the machine and check the drain hose to see if it is clogged. Be careful; it will be full of water. If the hose is not clogged, plug the machine back in and turn the timer to “spin”. If the machine still does not drain, turn it off and bail out all the water.
Refill it, turn it on, and turn the timer to “spin”. If it still does not drain, the problem is the water pump. Unplug the machine and bail out all the water. Take off the access panel and inspect the belt. If it is loose or missing, tighten or replace it. Otherwise, the water pump is probably damaged.
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- 2 Plumb a Waste Pipe for a Bathroom Sink
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The proper way to drain a washing machine isn't to hook the hose over the edge of a utility sink, as many homeowners do, but to install a standpipe and secure it to the wall framing. A standpipe is a vertical length of 2-inch drain pipe connected to a P-trap which is in turn connected to a drain. An important thing to remember when plumbing a standpipe is to provide venting, because a draining washing machine sends enough water through the pipes to empty P-traps in nearby sinks and toilets if there isn't enough air in the line.
1
Locate a drain near the washing machine, and cut through the pipe with a hacksaw. Separate the two halves, sand the edges with 120-grit sandpaper and glue in a wye fitting with a 2-inch inlet, using ABS cement. The inlet should be facing up and in the direction of the washing machine.
2
Assemble a 2-inch drain pipe that extends from the wye to a point 12 inches off the floor behind the washing machine. Maintain a minimum slope of 1/4 inch per foot.
3
Glue a 2-inch ABS P-trap to the other end of the drain. Use a trap that has a clean-out plug that allows you to remove obstructions. The trap inlet should be facing up.
4
Glue a length of 2-inch ABS pipe to the trap inlet that extends to a point above the top of the washing machine. This vertical pipe is the standpipe. Secure it to a stud with pipe strapping.
5
Add a vent if there isn't already one within 5 feet of the trap. Cut into the drain pipe at a point no farther than 5 feet from the trap, and glue in a 2-inch sanitary tee with its inlet facing up and the sweep pointing toward the washer.
6
Assemble a 2-inch vent that extends toward an existing vent. Cut the existing vent, install a sanitary tee and glue the new vent to the tee inlet. The new vent must maintain a minimum upward slope toward the tie-in location of 1/4 inch per foot.
Things You Will Need
- Hacksaw
- 120-grit sandpaper
- 2-inch ABS wye fitting
- ABS cement
- 2-inch ABS pipe and fittings
- 2-inch ABS P-trap with cleanout
- Pipe strapping
- Two 2-inch ABS sanitary tees
Tip
- You can construct the standpipe with PVC pipe. If you do, be sure to use PVC or all-purpose cement.
Warning
- The plumbing code requires the washing machine drain to be at least 2 inches in diameter all the way to the sewer. If you tie into an older 1 1/2-inch drain line, the drain will probably overflow.
References (2)
About the Author
Chris Deziel has a bachelor's degree in physics and a master's degree in humanities. Besides having an abiding interest in popular science, Deziel has been active in the building and home design trades since 1975. As a landscape builder, he helped establish two gardening companies.
Photo Credits
Installing A Standpipe
- Zedcor Wholly Owned/PhotoObjects.net/Getty Images